Marked by a higher reticence
In the course of the latter half of the twelfth century a change for the higher came visiting the spirit of gown, which was now marked by a higher reticence. The extravagant cuff disappeared, and sleeves had been worn tight and mounted on the wrist. An effigy of Queen Berengaria, within the Abbey of l Espan, exhibits the queen with flowing locks partly lined by a kerchief, surmounted , by a gold crown ; her gown is held V” collectively on the neck by a big round brooch set with valuable stones, her mantle hanging virtually to her toes behind, zero whereas a small aumoniere is pendent from a good looking girdle. For simply a lot element and no extra would I pin my religion to a monumental sculptor as a trend historian. Inexperienced was the favorite color of the gown A BROOCH. jn the reign of John, and there’s a king’s warrant for 2 inexperienced robes for the queen, every to include two ells of fabric, whereas there exists a register exhibiting inexperienced gown lined with contala price sixty shillings ; so frequent, the truth is, was the carrying of the inexperienced that Longchamp, the conceited Bishop of Ely, when he was compelled to fly the dominion to flee John’s rage, disguised him-self in a lady’s inexperienced tunic and Norman mantle and hood of the identical color.
It was the harvest-time for the embroiderers, or not less than it should have been, however it’s not on document that their providers had been rewarded with any magnificent generosity. Embroidery was rampant: all state clothes had been traced with gold, and vivid colors would adorn robes and mantles alike, a favorite design being a collection of circles.
The pelisse now got here into existence ; in type it was a close-fitting gown, a prototype of the garment which bears the identical title to-day. Fur was a modish trimming, and 9 bars of fur are
talked about as a trimming of some particular gray pelisse which King John bestowed upon Isabella of An- gouleme. Clearly the sealskin paletot and the sable cape weren’t amongst the probabilities of that hour, or His Majesty wouldn’t have been let off so cheaply.
The enthusiastic chronicler of trend
However to the enthusiastic chronicler of trend there was one reality of King John’s reign which was pre-eminently worthy and admirable. This was the introduction of the wimple, of all attributes to female magnificence certainly essentially the most turning into ever conceived or accomplished ! It was made both in silk or linen, a protecting for the neck, chin, and brow directly disguiseful and provocative, coquettish and demure. At instances the wimple was little greater than an elaborated veil or kerchief, however in its most alluring type it was a separate article worn below the veil, as in a nun’s gown of to-day, which, the truth is, in all however color, bears a hanging resemblance to the thirteenth – century gown. Certainly Chaucer distinguishes the 2 when he says—
Wering a vaile insted of wimple,
As nonnes don in ther abbey.