The Mordvine women

The Mordvine girls, if married, have the privilege of carrying a excessive cap labored in colored threads, with flaps hanging down on the again, adorned with chains and pendent fringes. The linen petticoats and aprons present a lot embroidery of purple and blue and lots of fringes, and tassels and beads grasp down behind.

Linen and ribbons, embroidery and colored worsted, are the frequent options of clothes in all of the villages, and the plait of hair, with strings of coral and ribbon, afford the younger woman some alternative for coquetry ; and at Kirguise there’s a head-dress specifically worthy of be aware. Three or 4 yards of fabric are positioned on the pinnacle, with the ends hanging on both facet of the face, and over that is sure one other stuff to type a turban, the hair being plaited in two and introduced up over the pinnacle to fall down once more over the ears.

In Cracow the open shirt is decked with collar and wristbands tied with ribbons, and over it is a tunic reaching to the knee, mounted in entrance, and held by a girdle ornamented with copper studs. The cap of material bordered with fur is frequent on this district as in lots of others.

The costume of the Saxon peasants close to Dresden bears a suggestion of pleasure in its multi-coloured particulars. They put on darkish petticoats with white jackets and aprons ; and around the neck a scarlet handkerchief, the ends of which seem beneath the jacket, and an enormous frill tied with a big blue bow in entrance and a big crimson one on the again. The hair is kind of hidden by a closely-fitting cap of crimson with a white border, or a colored handkerchief is pinned tightly spherical the pinnacle, and massive bows are positioned on the again.

The lads within the Tyrol put on quick coats

The lads within the Tyrol put on quick coats, bordered and lined with a vivid color, they usually present their polychromatic prejudices additional of their vests of inexperienced, yellow, or scarlet, striped with black and white. Their quick general trousers attain to their naked knees, and are ornamented with designs in white thread, and their inexperienced felt hats are conical in form, with slender brims, flaunting a bunch of colored ribbons on one facet.

The costume worn by the ladies could be very fairly, displaying a yellow or purple stomacher and darkish bodice, worn over 9 or ten full quick petticoats in several colors. The aprons have colored borders, and a black handkerchief is crossed over the bosom beneath the stomacher, fur being permitted to trim the sleeves when lengthy ; however with the quick sleeve the white frill places in an look on the elbow, and black mittens embroidered in colors cowl the palms and arms.

 

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In Switzerland black is allowed on festival garb

In Switzerland black is allowed on competition garb, and on Sundays the ladies put on black within the mornings and alter to colors within the night. Within the Berne Canton the ladies normally show a black lace cap, formed like a fan and tied beneath the chin, accompanying this with lengthy inexperienced gloves ; and in on a regular basis life their costume contains a blue or black petticoat reaching to the ankles,

scolloped on the border with purple or white, accomplished with a white chemisette excessive to the throat, with full brief sleeves revealed beneath a brief sleeveless jacket. On their heads are straw hats, and on their legs and ft purple stockings with black clocks and heel-less footwear, and their hair is worn hanging down in two lengthy plaits.

Costume has by means of the ages been allowed to indicate the married or single state of its wearer. In Rome the purple-bordered toga and the segmentum—regarding which there was some dialogue, because it has been individually de-scribed as a necklace, a fringe, and an embroidered ribbon—would grace the matron. The Roman bride wore a purple veil or flamen on her wedding- day ; and in Greece the married lady parted her hair in entrance in a unique trend from that of the maids ; and to today in some elements of the Grecian Islands brides put on the flame-coloured veil, and observe the customized of placing a patch of gold-leaf on the face. The trendy bride of Corfu illustrated at web page 126 is carrying a skirt of purple and an apron of blue, and a brief blue corselet buckled with gold ; her small purple velvet coat is traced with gold, and gold ornaments grasp around her neck and maintain the white chemisette throughout the bust. Ribbons entwine her hair with garlands of flowers, and over these a delicate white veil hangs to the waist, ribbons once more fluttering their class from waist to hem. .

Italy the peasants have ornaments

In numerous elements of Italy the peasants have ornaments handed down from era to generation, and as a gift to every succeeding bride an additional chain or jewel is added, forming a sentimental file of lineage which solely probably the most devastating poverty induces the possessor to half with.

The observe of weaving a wedding-veil is an outdated one, relationship from the instances of historic Greece. A bride of Attica is immortalised in a protracted flowing gown of clinging rose color, with a girdle of gold wire knotted and tasselled. Her hair is intently curled around the nape of her neck, and drawn up on the again into a large meshed web, the entrance banded with a golden fillet engraved with a Grecian key sample, whence floats a clear white veil to the bottom.

 

Tale

TALE XVII.

I used to be used to affiliate with a physique of males, whose conduct had the looks of correctness. An individual of consequence entertained very beneficial sentiments of them, and had assigned a hard and fast pension for. their assist; however considered one of them having executed one thing unbecoming the character of Dur- weshes, they forfeited his good opinion, and their market was injured. I wished, come what may or different, to acquire for my associates a restitution of the pension. I went to attend on the nice man, however the porter rudely refused me admittance. I excused him in conformity to the saying, that when you method the gate of both the Meer, the Vizier, or the Sultan, with none one to introduce you, when the canine and the porter discern that you’re poor, this seizes your collar and the opposite lays maintain of your skirt. When the nice man’s principal attendants had been apprized of my case, they performed me in with respect, and assigned me a spot of distinction ; however I humbly seated myself decrease, and mentioned, “ Excuse me, for I’m an inferior ; undergo me to seat myself within the rank of servants.” Certainly one of them jeplied, “zero God, what a tough saying is that this! In the event you seat your self on my head and eyes, I admit your gallantry, for you’re amiable.”

Summarily I seated myself, and conversed on numerous topics, until the circumstance of my buddy’s indiscretion was introduced in. I requested, “ What fault was found by my most bountiful lord that ought to have rendered his servant hateful in his sight ? To God alone be- longeth excellent greatness and benignity, who dis- covereth the crime, and but withholdeth not day by day bread.” The good man accepted of this speech, and ordered that my buddy’s stipend must be restored and the arrears discharged. I praised his generosity, made obeisance, and apologized for my boldness ; and on the time of taking depart, made the next statement : “ As a result of the temple of Mecca is the bestower of our needs, multitudes resort to it from many farsangs ; you should subsequently undergo the importunity of resembling myself, since nobody flings a stone right into a tree that hath no fruit.”

TALE XVIII.

A prince inherited from his father abundance of wealth. He opened the hand of liberality, and bestowed innumerable largesses and items on his troops and topics.

No odour points from a tray manufactured from lignum aloes : place it on the hearth that it could diffuse perfume like ambergris. In the event you want to be esteemed magnificent, be bountiful; for grain groweth not until it’s scattered. One of many courtiers inconsiderately started his admonition, saying, that “General Former monarchs gathered this treasure with labour, and saved it up towards a time of want, subsequently restrain your liberality, for occasions being in entrance and enemies on the rear, you should not deprive your self of sources towards the time of necessity. In the event you had been to lavish your treasure on the multitude, every head of a household wouldn’t obtain greater than a grain of rice for his share : why do you not precise a grain of silver from every particular person, which is able to produce you a treasure day by day? ” The prince regarded displeased at this discourse, so opposite to his personal sentiments, and he mentioned, “ The everlasting and Almighty God has made me King of those nations, that I’d take pleasure in and distribute ; I’m not a sentinel to look at the treasure.”

Karoon, who had forty chambers filled with treasure, was destroyed ; however Nowshirvan died not, having left an immortal identify.

 

The Sultan might commend

In case your servant was made up of defects each fault that the Sultan may commend could be construed into an excellence. In the future, within the tub, a chunk of perfumed clay got here to me from the hand of a pal. I mentioned to it, “ Artwork thou musk of a man-made compound of sweets, for I’m charmed with thy pleasant odour?” It answered, “ I used to be a nugatory piece of clay, however having for a season related to the rose, the advantage of my companion was communicated to me; in any other case I’m the identical an identical earth that I used to be at first.” Oh God ! bestow happiness on the Moslems by a protracted continuance of his life ; improve the reward of his virtues and perfections ; exalt the dignity of his pals and of his avowed and secret foes, for the sake of these sayings recorded within the verses of the Koran. zero Lord ! defend his kingdom, and be thou the guardian of his son ! Of a fact, the world enjoys happiness by way of his means ; could his personal luck be perpetual, and will God befriend him with the usual of victory. In such smart, could the department additionally flourish of which the King is the foundation, because the goodly produce of the soil dependeth on tlie excellency of the seed.

God protect the land ot Scheeraz

Could probably the most holy and mighty God protect the land ot Scheeraz in excellent peace till the day of resurrection, by way of dread of the justice of its Governors, and by the blessings entailed on those that act conformably to knowledge ! Know you not why 1 delayed a while overseas on my journey ? I departed out of dread of the Turks ; for I beheld the nation in dysfunction, just like the hair of an Ethiopian. Their kind was human ; however, like wolves, their claws had been reeking in blood. Inside the metropolis had been males with minds virtuous as angels, and with out was a military of warlike lions. On my return I discovered the land at peace, the tigers having forsaken their savage inclinations.

Thus, at first, I beheld the world stuffed with tumult, sorrow, and strife, and it was modified to its current comfortable state within the reign of the simply monarch, Atabuk Aboobukr, Ben Unhappy Zungy. The land of Persia is in no hazard of struggling misery as long as it’s ruled by one like thyself, who artwork the shadow of God. At at the present time, nobody can level out on the floor of the earth an asylum of consolation like the brink of thy gate. It’s thy obligation to help the helpless, and it behoveth us to supply up grateful acknowledgments, while the reward is with God, the creator of the universe. zero God ! protect the land of Persia from the storms of strife, so long as the earth and the air shall endure.

The eighteenth century greater comfort

Within the later days of the eighteenth century higher consolation was granted, when the quick – waisted gown prevailed, along with probably the most laudable ambition to repeat the flowing class of the basic interval. However the rule of ease didn’t acquire lengthy, and within the early occasions of the nineteenth century the style of tight lacing was revived with enthusiasm, stays being composed of bars of iron and metal with the tops stiffly steeled in order that the shoulder-straps is perhaps distributed with. Ladies suffered a craze for compression, till the sixth decade of the nineteenth century, when its affect was considerably much less important by motive of the ubiquity of the crinoline, which gave a semblance of the small waist to the least slender.

The crinoline boasts as its great-great-grand-mother the farthingale or vertingale, which was worn in France within the reign of Henry II., when it’s described as a cage placed on beneath the petticoat to inflate it to extravagant extent. It was, nonetheless, within the days of Elizabeth that the farthingale reached its apogee, and in keeping with Sir Roger de Coverley made its wearers look as in the event that they had been “ standing in a drum.” Early in Charles I.’s reign it went out of trend, and when Catherine of Braganza and her Portuguese women wore it on coming to London for her marriage with Charles II., the anachronism attracted crowds of amused spectators.

The farthingale, actually, had change into out of date, to reappear, nonetheless, within the considerably extra handy type of the hooped petticoat which swelled within the reign of Anne. The contour of this was very barely altered within the reign of George I., the edges being extra curved on the entrance and the again, and the outdated form of the round farthingale was most well-liked with the trainless robe. 1796 is the date given when hoops had been discarded besides at Court docket, and the actual crinoline made its look in 1854, the earlier 12 months having witnessed the crinoline petticoat as an extraordinary adjunct to decorate. The Empress Eugenie pronounced in favour of the crinoline, and it turned the mode, remaining so for a few years, whereas these few who refused to provide it patronage gave hostages to trend within the horsehair-stiffened petticoat. The crinoline in these days was of the skeleton variety and fashioned of hoops of metal held collectively by perpendicular tapes, nevertheless it quickly developed right into a petticoat of calico with the steels operating by way of it at intervals from hem to waist. It’s amongst the fashions over which even probably the most pessimistic could hopefully write “ Ichabod.”

OF CEREMONIAL AND BRIDAL DRESS

THE guidelines and laws of ceremonial gown are as exacting, if not as unalterable, as ever had been these of the Medes and Persians. Kings and Emperors punctiliously observe the etiquette which frames them, so that each royal assembly or parting or festivity is attended in a fastidiously prescribed garb, and the Grasp of the Royal Wardrobe have to be deeply and properly versed within the historical past of the nations, and worthy to take a diploma within the first division of the Court docket of Costume.

Mustafa the intercessor

Behold the merey and kindness of God

Behold the merey and kindness of God, He i himself ashamed that His servant hath sinned! Thos who continuously reside on the temple of His glorj confess the insufficiency of their worship, saying

He rendeth not the veil of their fame, and in the course of the fee of atrocious offences ceaseth to not bestow their each day bread.

zero merciful God, who out of Thine hidden treasures affordest each day sustenance to the Guebre and the Infidel, how canst Thou exclude Thy associates, Thou who deignest thus favourably to treat Thine enemies! He commandeth His chamberlain the zephyr to unfold the emerald carpet, and ordereth the ternal clouds to foster the toddler crops within the cradle of the earth. He clotheth the our bodies of the bushes with verdant foliage, the festal clothes of spring, and in celebration of the return of that season crowneth the youthful branches with garlands of blossoms. By His energy, the juice of the cane is transformed into scrumptious honey ; and by His self-discipline, the kernel of the date becometh a lofty tree. Clouds and wind, the moon, the solar, and the sky, are all busied, that thou, zero man, mayest receive thy bread and eat it not in neglect. For thy sake all these revolve and are obedient; it’s not due to this fact according to the principles of justice that the a erJ.y shouldest not obey. There’s a custom of the chief of created beings, probably the most noble of existences, the mercy of the universe, the purest of mankind and completion of the revolution of ages, Mohammed

Mustafa the intercessor

Mustafa (upon whom be blessing and peace !) the intercessor, the obeyed, the gracious prophet, the bountiful, the majestic, the affable, the sealed. Why ought to the wall of the trustworthy endure anxiousness which has such a supporter ? Why ought to he dread the waves of the ocean who hath Noah for his pilot ? His perfections procured him exaltation, his comeliness dispelled the darkness ; liberal are all his endowments ; blessing be on him and on his race!

The custom is that this: That when a sinful servant, acutely aware of his guiltiness, lifteth up the arms of repentance in hopes of acquiring pardon on the courtroom of the simply, the fantastic and stylish Being, the Almighty, regardeth him not; once more he supplicates, and is once more disregarded : as soon as extra he prayeth with humility and sorrow, after which the simply God saith, “ zero my angels, of a fact I’m ashamed on behalf of my servant, who hath no different Windfall than myself, and due to this fact verily I do pardon him. I’ve heard his prayer and have granted his petition, as a result of I’m ashamed of the extreme supplication and sorrow of my servant.”

 

Time and opportunity

Time and alternative prior to now have exhausted the ornamental delights of simulating some flower, however though such ways are distinctly commonplace, but few frocks look prettier than these when effectively deliberate. Some of the profitable I can recall represented a fuchsia, and it had a purple velvet skirt lower in pointed tabs, and bore an overskirt equally handled of crimson silk ; the tight- becoming brief bodice was of the palest inexperienced, cream- colored stockings in pale inexperienced satin footwear appeared beneath these, whereas the hat was a complete fuchsia, violet, purple, inexperienced, and cream being all disposed of their correct locations. This was straightforward sufficient to make, and facility should be a bonus, at the same time as economic system, within the planning of a gown for the carnival, since, in any case, it’s scarcely more likely to make its look on a couple of Event. An unique thought for which we may give because of the

Fates is the Gooseberry-fool’s gown, which can be compassed with petticoats of pale-green silk fringed with gooseberries of padded silk, and on the top a idiot’s cap with pendent gooseberries as bells.

As a gown straightforward of accomplishment I can quote that one sketched right here in color, the Seville Orange. The gown and bodice of orange-coloured silk bear an software of padded oranges and leaves on the skirt, beneath a chenille fringe of black with heavy netting, velvet streamers and oranges are used at discretion to adorn the hair, and the petticoats beneath the yellow skirt are of inexperienced, the stockings and footwear being of the identical tone.

Merely unique and never fairly

At a fancy-dress ball the costume which is merely unique and never fairly must be condemned besides when the novelty prize is the desideratum of the event. There have been some outstanding costumes designed, which have proclaimed each scientific invention, and others which have illustrated topical scenes and present occasions, involving a lot particular preparation and printing, and invariably presenting some problem when the nice query of head-dress needed to be answered becomingly. It’s not straightforward to convey a Marconi system as a hat, nor can it’s thought of a easy activity to speculate a hairstyle elegantly with the very best ideas of an air-ship, although the women of way back noticed match to crown themselves with the final cry in Armadas. It’s on file that the audacious actor, Samuel Foote, distinguished himself by showing at a masquerade in an abnormally exaggerated caricature of this trend—a coverage which led extra on to the discomfiture of Samuel Foote than to any severe contempt for the fashions he held as much as ridicule.

A simple and well-liked method of fixing the issue of what to put on is to breed the gown which is being worn by the heroine of some very favoured play. Veronique, in her pale-green silk and white muslin draperies, was a latest alternative a lot adopted, and for years no fancy-dress ball was full with out at the least three Kate Exhausting- castles, whereas Juliets have been to be present in each doorway, and a dancing Faust would lack no alternative of Margarets.

 

Sir James Linton took up this cry

Sir James Linton took up this cry, whereas declaring that the bane of the dressmaker was over all female stage costume, and could be, till there arose an autocratic supervisor. Sir James is extreme, and would settle for no compromise, insisting that costume in historic performs needs to be completely correct, fairly whatever the turning into, and asserting that a component of incongruity is all the time current on the stage, launched by the mere vainness of the mere lady.

In how far the artwork of costume might have an effect on the artwork of drama I’ve my pet theories, which embody a predilection in favour of purple of all shades for historic costume ; an appreciation of the appeal of ornament in black and gold ; a recognition of the immense worth of black in small portions properly disposed, and far sympathy with trimmings of black and white on gentle costume of contemporary style.

Mixtures of color which in unusual circumstances would seem a minimum of daring, and,, on the most, disagreeable, have a knack of being efficient when worn on the stage.

The deep crimson lining to the scarlet cloak could also be quoted for instance of this, along with the alliance of emerald inexperienced with turquoise blue, and orange color with lemon. On fairies and different angels of the ballet the repetition of the identical costume is of nice worth, the multiplied mass enchaining the attention, the place smaller teams of numerous particulars fail to carry it.

In moments of passionate emotion it’s nicely that the actor or actress ought to discard a hat.

Irving hardly ever wore a one in any respect, invariably taking the primary op- GE0RGE ALEXANDER AS GUY DOMVILLE. portunity to take away his, bearing it together with his particular grace underneath his arm or in his hand, as alternative permitted.

Administration of traditional material think about

Within the administration of traditional material consider- in a position talent and far apply are demanded, and plenty of an actor of latest strategies finds himself misplaced and awkward with out the consoling consolation of his trouser pocket for his stressed fingers, or the handy coat-tail to be jerked, in matches of irritation. Undoubtedly, it’s smart for the participant to accustom himself to unconventional garments for some days earlier than assuming them on the stage  it’s only thus that he can hope to keep away from self-consciousness and to flee inelegance of motion and gesture. Girls, though extra simply tailored to new garments, and fewer embarrassed underneath their affect, as a result of extra accustomed to such privileges, but undergo restraint in several apparel, and would but do nicely to think about the advisability of rehearsing of their frocks on multiple event earlier than they allow these to accompany them of their histrionic duties.

 

Pleasant reading is of the milkmaid

This may need been the apparel of many a wilful wench hieing forth on her vacation, within the hopes of catching a glimpse of some green-clad determine within the wake of homosexual Robin Hood.

Nice studying is of the milkmaid of the reign of James I. ; she should have been a bonny determine in her box-pleated under-skirt of purple serge, with a blue serge over-skirt tucked up on the hips. Her tight bodice was of blue and laced down the entrance, her sleeves have been lengthy and unfastened to permit of their being rolled again to the elbow, around her neck was wound a bright-coloured kerchief, and on her head one other, whereas, for merrymaking and fetes, she would tie her apron with colored ribbons, and let bunches of ribbon adorn her good high-heeled sneakers. As an alternative choice to the kerchief she would put on over her hood a plain straw hat with a barely turned-up brim decked with ribbons.

The Commonwealth introduced with it austerity of gown ; unhappy tones of lifeless brown and gray receiving common patronage, whereas the formal linen cuffs, collar, and cap have been ubiquitous. A plain materials shaped the over-skirt of many a gown which bore a striped under-skirt, tight sleeves, and a plain, tightly-fitting bodice. Cuffs and collars grew wider, the linen apron had two pockets, and there was added to costume a round cape of lifeless serge. The excessive felt hat was adorned just by a plain band of ribbon.

Through the Restoration, color asserted itself as soon as extra, and gown was once more fairly, a commendable instance having a blue linen skirt with a band of fancy materials around the hem, a full basque, and a linen collar, the entrance adorned with braid, the apron striped.

Stripes have been fairly a function of trend then and within the later days of William III., when the striped skirt can be adorned with a deep band of plain materials trimmed with braid, the striped bodice minimize V-shaped to point out a vest of pleated linen, the sleeves being plain with linen cuffs, the apron of linen, and the fabric hood and cape minimize in a single piece.

Fancy supplies have been made within the reign of Anne

Fancy supplies have been made within the reign of Anne, when brief skirts ceaselessly have been composed of stripes beneath a plain over-skirt bunched on the hips. The bodice then got here out within the glory of a muslin fichu, and the lengthy sleeves have been turned again to the elbow, the cap was of muslin too, with a full crown and gauffered edge. An enthralling image of a country-woman of 1711 exhibits her carrying a tucked-up robe with brief unfastened sleeves, a pair of stiff stays, and an apron, with high-heeled sneakers and a low cap turned up in entrance. Caps yielded place to hats for the decrease orders within the eighteenth century, when plain flat straw hats turned the one put on, being recognised as serving a helpful goal within the carrying of fruit and fish.

The fete dress of the women of Torjok

Nonetheless extra lovely and luxurious is the fete gown of the ladies of Torjok. They put on a singular head-dress often called kokoschink, which, actually translated, signifies the crest of a hen, the why and wherefore of the title being a riddle past the facility of the typical intelligence to resolve. Modelled on the strains of a reversed funnel, the tall slender crown of the kokoschink is white, encircled by slim bands of gold, and surmounted within the case of married ladies by a metallic decoration which can be triangular, oval, spherical, or crescentshaped., The one rule from which no departure could also be made is that the crown be completely vertical, whereas the crown frequent to the spinster of the neighborhood slants abruptly in direction of the entrance. All with out exception show a brim composed of an excellent frill of white lace encrusted with seed pearls, and an unlimited veil of white gauze embroidered and edged with gold, which is hooked up to the highest of the kokoschink and floats over the shoulders, the 2 factors dipping to the touch the bottom at both aspect.

These veils are usually not, as may simply be supposed, of Mohammedan origin, nor are they even remotely related to romance. As a matter of truth, nothing might nicely be extra prosaic than their historical past, for they had been first adopted as a safety towards the plague of flies with which the district is infested in heat climate.

Pre-eminently picturesque, the costume they shroud reveals a skirt of such beneficiant proportions as to recall recollections of the crinoline. That is of silk, and buttons down the entrance, and it isn’t solely edged with gold, however bears an all-over sample traced in gold galon. The free sleeveless jacket terminates beneath the waist, the place it stands out stiffly, and is of comparable texture, handled in equally lavish type with gold, the massive leg-o’-mutton sleeves belonging to the white chemisette being richly embroidered in gold thread. The throat is hidden by an unyielding cravat of white taffetas dominated with high-quality gold twine, the brief ends crossed underneath the chin ; and the footwear are of morocco or velvet, with a design labored in gold threads.

In winter the veil is deserted in favour

In winter the veil is deserted in favour of a scarf of white taffetas fringed with gold, worn over a modified model of the summer season kokoschink, in pale blue silk, embroidered with seed pearls and gold. The all-enveloping greatcoat is of material or velvet, edged with fur, and lapped nicely over on the best aspect, the place it fastens close to the shoulder solely. A function of the wrap is the sleeve, which is slim and of irregular size, terminating beneath the knees in a fur cuff, no trace being allowed to transpire of the fingers thus jealously guarded from the unwelcome attentions of frost.